Monday, June 19, 2006

Repairing a Fujitsu S2020 AC Jack

This blog shows you how to repair a Fujitsu S2020 Notebook computer with a bad AC adapter jack. I've owned two Fujitsu notebooks now and they both have the same design flaw. I just loved the first laptop I had and the S2020 is so nice that even though the first one had jack problems, I went and bought the S2020.

Well, it has the same damn problems. It is simply a bad design. The jack on the back has some space to the left, right, top and bottom. When you plug in your computer the jack gets wiggled a bit. The only supports the jack has is the solder connection on the board it is connected to. So, over time the solder wiggles away and your AC adapter jack becomes intermittent. Sometimes it works and sometimes you have to wiggle it to get it to work

As it gets worse and worse, you have to apply pressure to get it to work or it only works if the plug is in a certain position. I had my S2020 repaired for the jack problem when it was under warranty and then a couple months later, after the warranty period was over, the same thing happened again.

To fix my problem, I bought a Dell that has a different jack design. We'll see how that goes, it is has been fine so far.

But another member of my household has been using the S2020 and the bad jack has been a pain. It also seems to wreak havoc with the battery. When I got it repaired under warranty, I asked for a new battery because with the quick charge/discharge mess that goes on with the intermittent connection, it seemed to wreck the charge time on the battery. They wouldn't give me a new one.

I had some time today so I bought the computer to a local company to get repaired. They had quoted $100 on the phone. When I got there, they wanted $300 and said they needed to ship it somewhere else to fix it.

I called another store and they wanted $250 to fix the jack. I know there are online people who will do it for something like $100 if you ship it to them but I was fed up and I decided to do it myself.

One thing that's interesting is that I'm stinking rich. But I'm not going to pay $300 to fix an old computer when I can buy a new one for under $1000. It just doesn't make sense.

I now have a fixed notebook. Here is a how-to on what I did to repair the AC Adapter jack on my Fujitsu S2020. Now, if you aren't handy with things or aren't careful, you will break your computer when you do this. But if you can manage to do things carefully, slowly, step by step, you might end up with a working computer. Read through the instructions and see if you are up to it.

Good luck. I loved the Fujitsus but the jack problem is a deal breaker and I've been dealing with it for years on two different models and they both have the same problem.

Fujitsu, your design team is great but the guy working on your power jack needs to be fired. I'm not buying another Fujitsu until I see a writeup from your company on how you fixed this problem.

Step 1.

Assemble the right tools. You will need:

  • A pencil
  • Some small Phillips head screwdrivers
  • An Exacto knife or similar tiny blade
  • A tweezers with a fine tip
  • A small pliers with a small tip or a small socket set
  • A soldering iron, solder and possibly a desoldering wick

Do not even start on assembly until you have the right tools. If you don't have the right tools, go out and buy them, you will be much happier for it.

Step 2

Find a nice area to work in. You will want a chair and table. Put 6 or 8 white sheets of paper down on the table so you won't lose screws that you take out of the notebook and so you can jot down notes with the pencil as you perform each step.

Step 3

Put the notebook upside down on the papers. Pull out the CDROM drive by pulling the lever on the side and pulling it out. Then remove the battery by pushing the locking thing and pulling it out.

When you are done, things should look like this:

Step 4

Remove the hard drive by removing the two screws on the panel that covers the hard drive on the underside, sliding the panel off, carefully pulling the ribbon up and out of its connector and then pulling the hard drive out by pulling up on the little tab that is there to help you pull the hard drive out.

When you are done, things should look like this:

Step 5

Use a small phillips head screwdriver to remove all 10 screws from the underside and put them on the white paper and mark that they are the screws from the back on the paper with the pencil. In the image below, there is still one screw to be removed, the one in the middle of the lower right. That one should be removed as well.

In the picture above, you'll notice there are also 3 screws on the metal pieces in the upper right. They are up where the CDROM drive goes. You will want to remove those as well. Here's a close up of that area:

Step 6

Flip the computer over so it is right side up.

Then remove the two screws from the back side of the notebook. When I say the back side, I mean the side where the power jack is. There is a screw on each side you should remove. Here's one of them removed:

Step 7

Now open up the display so the display is upright (90 degree angle).

Then, with the Exacto knift and looking at the back, carefully put the Exacto knife in the area shown and just pry it up enough to that it slides over the tabs that are keeping it locked into place. Don't pry it too much or you can break it and then you won't be very happy.

Don't try to do this with a screwdriver, use something with a tiny blade like an Exacto blade shown here. You'll gouge the heck out if it using anything bigger than an Exacto knife.

Pry up each side like that. Again, just pry it up enough to slip over the tab that keeps them in place. Here's what the left one should look like:

Step 8

Now open the display until it is flat on the table. It should look like this:

And then carefully and slowly lift up the LCD display panel. It has 2 connectors below it, you don't pull it hard. You need to lift it up just a bit so you can see the connectors below it. There is a brown ribbon and then 4 wires. The ribbon is connected to the panel with one connector and the wires with another. When you lift it up, it will look like this:

Here's more detail on where the two connectors are that connect the LCD panel to the main board:

Step 9

Now we will remove the two connectors that are holding the LCD display panel to the main board. You need to be very careful with these. Use the tweezers to pry the one on the left (the one with the wires) by pushing up a little on each side of the plastic thing the wires are in. Do a little bit on one side and then move to the other side. Be careful, any of these little small things can snap and then you're looking at serious repair.

Here is the 4 wire connector after it has been lifted out of its socket:

And now we need to remove the ribbon. The connector looks a bit confusing. What you do is lift up the front to unlock it. You can use the tweezers to do that. Then the ribbon just lifts out. Don't pull on the sides, I did and I snapped one as I was trying to figure out how the ribbon was locked in. Again, you lift up the front of the brown thing to unlock it and then the ribbon just lifts out.

Be very careful, if you aren't sure exactly how to get the ribbon out, examine it before pulling on anything. Don't pull on the ribbon unless it is unlocked. Don't mess around with the things on the side of the connector.

When the ribbon is out of the connection, it will look like this:

Now you can lift off the LCD panel and put it to the side:

Step 10

Now we'll remove the keyboard. The keyboard is just held on by sticky things, it isn't screwed down. You can pry up the top of the keyboard until it comes off the sticky things. Again, do this carefully and listen for the sticky pieces unhooking.

Once it is off the sticky things, you can flip it up and over like this. There is a ribbon attached to it, don't strain it, just flip the keyboard up and over:

Now we have another funny ribbon connector. To unhook the ribbon, we need to unlock the connector. To do that, you lift each side of the connector (the black plastic thing the ribbon is in) until it is raised a bit. It doesn't come off, it just lifts up a bit on each side and then the ribbon is unlocked and can come out easily. Don't pull on the ribbon while it is locked in there.

When the connector is open and the ribbon is removed, things look like this:

Now you can lift the keyboard off and put it somewhere. Here I've put it above the notebook. You can also notice that I am taking notes about what I am doing on the paper so I know how to reverse all the steps properly.

Step 11

Now we'll want to unhook the display. We won't be taking it all the way off, we just need it out of the way. You need to be careful here because we'll leave it connected by some wires and we don't want to break those wires.

Unscrew the two screws that are holding the display down on each side. The screws are in the hinges. Then lift off the display and place it above the notebook, being careful not to stretch the wires that connects the display to the main board.

Here's the display lifted off and placed above the notebook:

Then we will just unhook 2 of the 3 connectors to the LCD display. We will still leave one of them connected but we will remove two of them to make things easier to move around.

Here's the first one to remove. To remove this one, we lift each side a little bit until it lifts out out of the connector:

The second one looks like of strange. I don't have a good picture of it because it was under the other one above. Here's a circle around it. It looks like the circle is around the one we just removed but that is because it is a bad picture.

To remove that connection, I lifted the metal bar that goes across it and then pulled up on it a bit and it slid out. Be careful here, these are the connectors for the display and if you mess them up then you won't have a display that works any more.

Step 12

Now remove the 7 screws from the top of the notebook. The one that might be hard to find is the one hiding just under the wires that go to the display panel. The other ones are pretty obvious. Remove all those screws and put them on the side.

Step 13

We're getting closer. Now we need to remove the video out screws. On the back of the notebook, there is a thing you open to get to the video out connection. Open that up (it just kind of dangles there when it is open as it stays connected on one side).

Now unscrew the two terminals that are on each side. Use the a small socket wrench if you have one. If you don't have one, use the small pliers to get them started and then just spin them off with your fingers. Here are the two things we want to unscrew:

And here they are unscrewed:

Step 14

Now the really tricky step and one where you have to be very careful. Instead of taking the whole notebook apart, I've taken enough things off to pull the board that contains the AC Adapter Plug on it. But just enough. You will need to pry open the case up on the side so there will be enough of an opening to pull out the small board with the plug attached to it.

Once the case is pried open, you can lift up the board off its connector and then slide it out. THERE IS SOMETHING TO BE VERY CAREFUL OF HERE.

When you lift it up and slide it out, watch out for that little tab that is connected to the wireless on/off switch at the back. That thing will snap with nearly no force applied to it. When you pull the board up, make sure that tab slips out of the on/off switch without bending or hitting anything. Don't put any pressure on that little tab, it will break if you do.

If you made it this far, you have the small board with the power jack out of the notebook. Here's mine on the ground outside. I brought it outside because the next step is to solder it to fix it and I didn't want the fumes in the house:

Step 15

So, what's wrong with the board? We'll here is the problem. The metal piece on the power jack wiggled around and wiggled the solder away from around it, making the connection intermittent.

So, we resolder the connection to look like this:

There, that's much better.

Step 16

This is the hardest step. Removing this small board was the second hardest step. Putting it back in without breaking the small tab that goes into the on/off switch is the hardest step. Luckily, if you do break that tab, you can just switch it to "on" with a pin or something and still use the computer. I never had it off anyway. But you won't be happy if you break the tab.

Here's the tab you need to worry about:

So, you carefully and slowly pry open the cover up again. Then you slide the board back in the way it came out. And then, before pushing it down into place, you really carefully line up that small tab that goes into the wireless on/off switch. You need to be really careful here and somehow push the board down into its connection while keeping an eye on that on/off switch tab and not breaking that thing. If you can do that, the rest isn't very hard.

Here's a pic with the case propped open with a screwdriver as I replaced the little board:

Step 17

We now just reverse the steps above to put everything back together. However, there are two things to be careful of. Both things have to do with brown ribbons. We don't want the ribbons to be pressed on their folds. Here is the first ribbon we need to be careful of:

When we put the keyboard back over it, you don't want the ribbon lying on top of the metal or the keyboard will crush it on its fold. So, make sure it is pushed into the hole in the metal as in the photo.

Explained in a different way, if you look at the ribbon in the circle in the photo, it is under the metal thing. That is where it should be, it shouldn't have any part of it on top of the metal or it will be crushed when you push the keyboard over it.

The second ribbon you need to be really careful of is the one of the LCD panel. Here it is:

Just like the other ribbon, this one needs to go under the casing. If you let it sit on top of the casing, it will be crushed when you put the LCD panel in and will likely break. Make sure it is pushed under the metal like this:

And make sure it stays there when you put the LCD panel back in. There should be no pressure on the crease of that ribbon.

Step 18

After reassembly, you should check to make sure the computer works. If it doesn't, contact someone who knows what they are doing and pay them a lot of money to fix it.

Step 19

This is for extra credit. I'd like to help prevent this from happening in the future for a couple reasons. One is because it is a giant pain in the keister. The second is I noticed some arcing marks (burn marks) in the area where the bad connection was from the power jack. I'd rather not have a fire because the jack goes bad. It's a low probability but its there.

To prevent the power jack from being wiggled so much, I built a small support out of plastic. I look for a piece of plastic that was somewhat thin and that had a 90 degree angle in it already. What I found that looked good was a plastic protractor case. From the protractor case, I cut the thing you see below:

I cut it to fit in the area of the power jack. It would slide into the sides and top to prevent them from wiggling so much. Then when you plugged and unplugged the computer, most of the the side to side and up and down force would be transferred to the case instead of being transferred to the pins on the AC jack.

Here's a closeup of the little piece I cut sitting on the logo on the lid of the notebook:

Here's a picture of it in a test fit to see how well it will work. Seems pretty good. All we need to do from here is trim the sides and tape it down:

And here it is trimmed and taped:

I didn't use paper or cardboard for the support because if it does arc, I didn't want the whole thing starting on fire.

Step 20

Do me a favor and add a comment if you have one. If you had problems with this or like it or whatever. Also, put a link to this somewhere so other folks can find it. I spent a lot of time on it to try and make it useful and my guess is everyone who has a Fujitsu laptop will end up with this problem at some point.

Good luck!


Blogger subrat said...

hey kko
first of all, thanx for the very detailed walkthrough..
i have a diferent problem with my s6110 tho. juz now, i saw an 'ant' behind the lcd screen. that is its between the actual lcd and the outher screen. do u think it's possible to take apart the lcd without damaging it?

6:39 AM  
Blogger DrGorsky said...

Thanks, KKO. I followed your instructions to fix my S6120D's power jack. You went beyond the call of duty, posting this excellent tutorial.

By the way, one thing I did differently from you was to super-glue a thin plastic "border" around 3 of the 4 sides of the power jack in order to reduce future "wiggle-wear" on the soldered circuit board. (This is less visible than the approach you took, with your "flanges" visible on the back of the case.)

Also, for anyone else with an S6120 laptop, note that the Fujitsu power jack sold at:
will not fit your laptop. (I tried, but its prongs don't line up properly with the circuit board.)

1:00 AM  
Blogger Insufferable Cynic said...

This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

6:22 AM  
Blogger Insufferable Cynic said...

Excellent article. I was resigned to spending a couple of hundred bucks by sending it off to the Fujitsu repair, but now I could get it fixed myself, thanks to the very detailed article..

I really appreciate the effort.

12:25 PM  
Blogger Scott said...

What an AWESOME walkthrough !!! I have an almost identical issue with my S-2020. Problem with mine is that one of the three legs is missing. What to do with a broken plug and nothing to solder back together ??? I've looked around online for the whole board and the cheapest I can find is on E-Bay for $55.00. If only I could find just the Black plug to solder back into the board. Anyone got any ideas ??? If so, please send to or THANKS again !!!

7:09 PM  
Blogger deano said...


Fantastic instructions! You made my month!

Here's a few minor differences I saw while fixing my S6120:

Step 11: My 6210 has only 1 black connector (instead of the two you mention). It pops off w/o much difficulty. It's covered by a piece of non-conductive sticky tape (which must be there for a reason, so...don't forget to reapply when reassembling).

Step 12: My 6210 has 8 screws holding down the top of the notebook. 2 smaller black ones & 6 silver. The location of the 2 black ones are indicated by punch marker arrows on the chassis.

12:11 PM  
Blogger deano said...

Oops, I went a little dislexic for a second: the model # I'm discussing in the previous comment is only S6210.

12:14 PM  
Blogger Ajay said...

Wow, I've been trying hard to find something like this. I have a s6231. My problem is somewhat different though... my fan is making a ridiculous amount of noise - like its loose, not straight, bearings are worn...i have no idea, but i wanted to open it up to see if there was something I could do about it. Anyone else had this problem, or anyone else know if I can get a new fan if I manage to get to it?

Hey KKO, if I follow this tutorial, do you have any suggestions where I ought to branch away from your instructions to get to the fan?

1:54 AM  
Blogger gbradley said...

Thanks for the great tutorial.
This allowed me to fix a laptop that was driving me crazy when the battery wasn't charging.
Nice work.

7:42 AM  
Blogger Len said...

Wow -- one of the best examples of disassembly/reassembly documentation I've seen in a long time. I had exactly the same problem, took two hours to follow your directions explicitly, and had 100% success. Thanks! There's no way I could otherwise have done it without breaking something.

Small changes/notes for my particular laptop, the LIFEBOOK S6210:

Step 11: The display has only one cable/connector, plus two antenna wires to the wifi module. After disconnecting those, the display could be completely removed. Pull the antenna connectors straight up to remove.

Step 12: Note that two of the screws are black and slightly recessed; they are marked with a triangle. There is an 8th silver recessed screw near the single USB connector that should not be removed.

Step 13.5: Must remove the wifi card, by spreading the side locks, lifting the far end, and sliding out of the connector.

Instead of your shim for the plug I added some plastic clips on the back panel to strain relieve the power cord, which we don't disconnect very often.

Thanks again.
-- Len

6:31 AM  
Blogger Seckin said...

Thanks for the detailed info. I'm having a very similar problem with my old Fujitsu lifebook (C-4310). I now removed the mainboard and will look at the solderin on it. I hope I can put it back together :) after I'm done.


8:51 AM  
Blogger Hernan Gutierrez said...

Hi kko, I have the same problem with my laptop lifebook S6010, do you know how I can do to disassembly this model.? Thanks.

9:24 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Just want to say thanks for allowing me to spend Friday evening (about 2 hours) completely fixing my S6210 Fujitsu due a failing power connector. Your blog made this possible and I want to say how grateful I am for your generosity in taking time to help others with this annoying problem. Kudos, cheers, and once again THANKS VERY MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

8:25 PM  
Blogger Huperekchuno said...

thankyou, this looks great, I'm struggling to take apart my Fujitsu right now, and this is just what I need. The laptop fell with the power lead in and it bent the ac jack into the casing! So im just fixing that. Cheers KKO

12:19 PM  
Blogger Huperekchuno said...

thankyou, this looks great, I'm struggling to take apart my Fujitsu right now, and this is just what I need. The laptop fell with the power lead in and it bent the ac jack into the casing! So im just fixing that. Cheers KKO

12:19 PM  
Blogger David Eisner said...

I justed used these directions to repair a friend's Fujitsu S2020, and it worked like a charm. The information about the potential gotchas was much appreciated.

By the way, in this case, all three power connector pins had worked themselves free of the solder. Furhtermore, there were carbon burn marks around the connectors and pads, from repeated arcing I imagine.

11:02 AM  
Blogger Romundo said...

Thanks for this information. I had the same problem on my s6110. I followed your instructions and it seemed to work (though the plug is still very wobbly, wobbling it does not disconnect power as it did before).

But in putting things back together I must have done something wrong - I lost a number of keys on my keyboard - tapping them produces no result. Anyone have this problem or know how to fix it? I imagine it has to do with the ribbon but I was very careful not to bend it and went back in and reinserted it again to make sure the contacts were good...

but still I have no '7' 't' 's' or '?'... any idea beyond uing the virtual keyboard? You wouldn't believe how common 't' and 's' are in English!

11:14 AM  
Blogger Tisha said...

Thanks so much for this tutorial. The AC Jack on my Fujitsu finally gave up a week ago, and my boyfriend was able to fix it thanks to you. You've saved us heaps of money! (Except I went out and bought a HP Pavillion notebook anyway, lol).

5:39 AM  
Blogger Pam said...

Thank you SO MUCH for this outstanding tutorial! I just fixed my S6231 - a couple of tiny differences with that model that others have mentioned, but nothing major. The board with the power jack is a little bit different, but again, nothing I couldn't figure out given your great instructions. Power hasn't blipped even once since I put it back together, and it had gotten so bad I had to fiddle with it constantly to keep it working. Spent $20 at radio shack for a soldering iron and some solder - much cheaper and more fun than sending it out for repair. Thanks a million!

2:11 PM  
Blogger Nancy said...

This blog was great, thank you! Unfortunately, after resoldering the pins, my laptop still does not get power. Anyone had the same luck as me? I'm going to try replacing the board...found one on eBay.

1:48 PM  
Blogger Francis said...

hey, thank you so much for posting that! i have a fujitsu s6231 and i wanted to do some replace the keyboard/lcd and this guide was very helpful!

9:35 PM  
Blogger 洛杉磯的台客 said...

Thanks for your post. My S2020 LCD screen is flickering. I used an external monitor and it's OK. So I know the video chip is good.

Do you know what could be wrong with the LCD flickering? Do I have to take out CD ROM drive and HDD if I only want to remove the LCD?


1:44 PM  
Blogger Chuck said...

All I can say is, "WOW!" What a gift. You saved me hundreds of dollars and gave me the satisfaction of making the repair myself. I also want to thank Len and deano because my laptop was also a S6210 and their comments helped a lot. Again, THANK YOU!

6:09 PM  
Blogger Duc Pham said...

Thank you so much.
This is so much helpful for me to repair my S6120.

9:24 PM  
Blogger Jose said...

Thanks for the article. Am going to try this later one of my two Lifebooks as a babysitter trashed the AC connector...looks difficult. Ajay: my other Lifebook has been making that grinding noise for 3 years and is still working fine...

4:12 AM  
Blogger kromanek said...

Although my notebook is a Lifebook X 7595, it showed the same problem and your blog came in really useful! I managed to disassemble alright and solder in a new socket!

Thanks, Klaus

4:47 PM  
Blogger SalesJerk said...

Over a year ago I fixed both of our S6210s. . . .Then I invented a CRD (Cable Restraint Device) for laptops to keep it from ever happening again. And it hasn't. It worked so well my wife talked into making them...It's called the "JerkStopper". Funny or weird name but it accurately describes what it does. See it on the web at GIZMAG gave it a nice write up.

2:58 PM  
Blogger SalesJerk said...

I can't type for crap today. . .

The website address is

2:59 PM  
Blogger Anne said...

THANK YOU! My son decided to start taking his laptop apart when the new jack arrived (there was a pin broken too, so although I resent the $170 spent, I don't think just soldering would have saved us); so I arrived home to a half-disassembled laptop and a teenager trying to pull it apart. He googled, then I googled, and we found YOU. You are our savior, we were able to get it apart without destroying it, and we are in the process of getting it back together (unfortunately, I arrived too late for the wonderful instruction of "take notes" to be effective). Anyway, thank you so much for the amazingly detailed descriptions and photos, and we'll love you even more if the thing works.

6:39 PM  
Blogger Jeff Miller said...

UNBELIEVABLE! I have been living with a 'bad connection' for the better part of 6 months and it has gotten progressively worse over time. I have never done any internal tinkering with a laptop, but with your help I thought I would give it a try. Two hours later, I am up and running! Thank you so much!

5:02 PM  
Blogger hingerepair said...

Hey people, this is the author of the blog here. I forgot the password to the blog and I have a new computer I had to repair (Dell XPS M140). This time the hinges broke.

The story on fixing the broken hinges is at:

The Dell XPS M140 doesn't have the same jack problem as the Fujitsu. The good news is the AC repair to the Fujitsu hasn't has held up over time, I haven't had a problem since I repaired it.

Good luck.

4:00 PM  
Blogger a member said...

Is this really as easy as everyone says it is? 2 hours?
it seems like everything hinges on soldering in Step 15... Is it really as easy as applying a dab of solder?

11:04 AM  
Blogger Chmmr said...

thank you so much, had a slightly different model but this was a ton of help anyway. my ac jack was practically broken and unrepairable, but that's kind of another issue

9:26 AM  
Blogger Jasonmolinari said...

Thanks so much for this picture guide. I replaced the power connector on my S6231.
The only difference is there is only 1 connector to remove for the screen, instead of 2. Other than that identical.

Thanks again!!

7:48 PM  
Blogger Eli said...

Thanks so much. I used your exceptional guide to both repair the AC jack and replace the keyboard on my S-6120D. I love this little laptop and was fearing having to part with it. Thanks to you, I can keep her going!

4:34 PM  
Blogger Miguel said...

I used this guide to fix this very problem on a Fujitsu S6210. I love this notebook, the only bad thing about it is really the AC jack issue (which only started giving problems after 4 years of use).

Thanks SO much for posting this, you saved me the hassle and money of buying a new laptop.

2:10 AM  
Blogger bhupeshbora said...

my laptop works with a battery, but it wont charge i tried to do all the steps in the blog i didnt find any issue with the connecter funny thing is it will even not charge with the DOCK which apparently doesn't uses this jack as a power source. So what i understand there is some problem with the unit which converts ac/dc or which actually makes the computer work on external source. any idea which part is this is the board you took out does this trick ??

9:34 PM  
Blogger bhupeshbora said...

my laptop works with a battery, but it wont charge i tried to do all the steps in the blog i didnt find any issue with the connecter funny thing is it will even not charge with the DOCK which apparently doesn't uses this jack as a power source. So what i understand there is some problem with the unit which converts ac/dc or which actually makes the computer work on external source. any idea which part is this is the board you took out does this trick ??

9:35 PM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Two complete novices followed your excellent instructions with total success. Thankyou so much for such a clear and detailed guide.

5:55 AM  
Blogger Tony said...

Thanks for the excellent instructions. 2 hours 20 min with a 35 minute break in the middle = 1:45.
S6120 laptop, so the notes from deano and len were greatly appreciated too.

Again thanks.

7:01 PM  
Blogger ငစေန said...

i'm going to clean up the internal exhaust fan, but stuck in removing cover. i'll try again using your instruction. thankx

12:32 AM  
Blogger Scott said...

Wow! This fix worked great on my Fujitsu S6210. I also used some of the help from the comments specific to the S6210. Life is so much better now.

My only issue was the the little tabs on the LCD display panel in step 7. While they were fine when I removed the panel, when it came time to pull out the power card the little tabs broke off with barely any contact. So its something to be careful of. Actually, its not a really big deal that the broke off... they do help hold down the panel but its not critical.

While my AC jack is round on the S6210, I still cut some stiff plastic and surrounded the jack for support and used the dependable duct tape to attach it :)

Again... THANKS!!!!!

12:20 AM  
Blogger David said...

Hey kko,
I am having a problem like bhupeshbora. Works on battery power but will not take a charge. Any helpful ideas? I tried replacing the jack with another jack I purchased off eBay. no luck there.

6:10 PM  
Blogger Kaz said...

Thanks so much just repaired my laptop S5582 following your instructions and have also super glued plastic (from an ice cream tub)to 3 sides of the jack. Thought I would mention for anyone that doesn't feel confident soldering that on ebay they sell the power jack boards. I have just bought one for £6 including postage to have as a spare. This is great as your don't have to buy a whole motherboard as with some other laptops.

1:17 PM  
Blogger samantha said...

Hi I have A amilo d7850 and have the same problem only I cant follow your instructions as the make up is completely different do you have any experience with this model. If so can you help? Ever hopeful. S.

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Blogger bhupeshbora said...

is any one able to repair there computer ...which works on Battery only but is not able to charge battery or run on Direct AC supply ... any help will be appreciated...

6:39 AM  
Blogger Kaz said...

Sounds like you have a faulty a/c adapter or the power jack is not making contact. It depends which model it is. Some laptops have a small board inside which you can replace from ebay(power supply board) or another thing is a port replicator which attaches to the laptop which has a power supply.

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Shopping the cheap battery,you can see from here.

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Blogger Lord said...

Thanks so much for the details, and to the ones that updated for the S6210!
It took me considerably longer than two hours but that is probably because it was my first soldering job and I had to completely remove the old connector.

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Anonymous Anonymous said...

Hi Nice Blog .you can afford to have it fixed by the professionals if and when you find out that the job is too, big for you to handle. In taking your hp laptop battery apart make sure that you are using the approved tools.

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Blogger Alter Ego said...

Thanks for the detail instruction. It helps me solve the same issue on my S6240. It is pretty much the same except there is only one cable in step 11 in S6240.

I also have a dying CMOS battery; however, I could not find it. Do you have any idea where it is?


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Blogger Mike said...

You can also find the power jack from Digikey. It is made by CUI Inc. The manuf. part # is PJ-025. The Digikey part # is: CP-025-ND.

8:08 PM  
Blogger Oliver said...

Thanks so much for posting this. I have the exact same problem with my S2020. I tried to open up the laptop to resolder the jack but didn't get very far because it was not at all obvious to me how the thing was put together. This guide is just what I need. I will try following your steps and let you know how it goes. Thanks again!

9:24 AM  
Blogger fjintx said...

Dear KKO,
Add another delighted customer to your long list of kudos. I especially appreciate you warning us of all the damage we could do to the ribbons and connect clips before we attemted to remove them. It was such a delight to follow you guidance on this repair and then watching my favorite laptop computer come back to life. People like you who are willing to take the time to document tedious repairs like this are too rare.
Happy holiday to you KKO!

8:09 AM  
Blogger Hal said...

evidently this is a common problem with fujitsu laptops...I have a 6120, or something like that, and it is having the same issue with the power needs to address there a class action suit yet (I say "yet" as this obviously cries out for it)

8:00 AM  
Blogger quantum said...

Thanks so much. A real life saver. Major $$ saver too.

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Blogger GBF said...

Thank you so much for this excellent tutorial! Worked great on my S6230. Well done!

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Blogger satski66 said...

Hi I have a Amilo Pro V2020. The keyboard was not functioning. Whilst dismantling the laptop I noticed that the keyboard ribbon cable had disconnected with the motherboard. Is there a simple way of reconnecting the cable during refitting?

6:02 AM  
Blogger jan said...

I had exactly the same problems. After a "professional" repair the DC connector burned out again. So I bought a used port replicator for $ 15; after some time the DC connector on that Port Replicator went bad as well. So I drilled a small hole into the cover of the Port Replicator and soldered the DC wires fixed to the DC jack.
True, the DC connection at this laptop is misery.
Regards and good luck to you all.

8:02 AM  
Blogger jan said...

Forgot to say I have a S2020.
Port Replicator has Product # FPCPR38 and Part # CP162781.
I found the item by searching Ebay.
I was told this item fits also other S Series models but I do not know more about that.

8:08 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

When I was a toddler I got my willy pinched in a nasty zip fastener and nobody knew how to fix that!!!

Pity that Google at that time did not exist otherwise somebody would have certainly posted a tutorial (with images) to unfasten that painful jam!

The tutorial you posted dear kko has been incredibly helpful: It took me approx. 2 hours to complete the repair but my FS S6120 got P-E-R-F-E-C-T-L-Y fixed... No more intermittent charging!!!

Thanks a lot ;)


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Blogger Mongkol said...

Thanks for great job. I spent lot of time to find proper repair method and you did it. Cheer !

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Blogger Emixam said...

Thanks. Great walkthhough. I started around 9h00 this morning trying to figure out how to take my fujitsu in part and I could not figure it out. Then I found your post, took me 2h and it was backup and repaired :). My model is different, it is a fujitsu s6210 but still extremely useful.
Thamks again Maxime

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Blogger Joel said...


I fought this problem for months before I stumbled upon you magnificently crafted directions. I did it in two hours by being patient. Thank you, thank you.

God Bless You for taking the time to help us.

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Blogger Islander Guy said...

All I have to say is WOW! What a great step by step play. I replaced the a/c jack which cost about $10.00. I soldered and fixed w/in a few hours. Thank you for taking the time to put this together. This was a poorly designed Fujitsu model. I was just about to fling it out the car window.

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Blogger Mikes said...

This comment has been removed by the author.

1:37 PM  
Blogger Mikes said...

It is simply a bad design. The jack on the back has some space to the left, right, top and bottom. When you plug in your computer the jack gets wiggled a bit. The only supports the jack has is the solder connection on the board it is connected to. But, I need new updates and comments to discuss this with.

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Blogger Corb2000 said...

Just what I needed to give me the confidence to dismantle my daughter's Fujitsu E8010 laptop.

For reference, the E8010 has a round dc power jack visible in the case with a square back body, the latter part held in place with a bracket. Despite the bracket, the jack still moves enough to eventually break the soldered connection(s).

Dismantling the E8010 is a similar process to the S series, although I did ultimately just have to remove any visible screw in order to lift the motherboard completely out of the case from the upper face.

Resoldering the connection was a little nerve wracking as it is so small a area to work on. When reassembling I wrapped the bracket in insulation tape and bent the bracket to create a tighter fit around the body of the power jack.

The jack now seems much more secure. Thanks again for a very helpful original post.

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Blogger rahamathunnisa said...

Hi, I have fujitsu siemens Amilo 1650g. The problem with me is I couldnt remove the mother board that has that power socket. Unless I can take it out, I cannot solder it. Its just horrible. Any help?

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Blogger Sanwalah said...

Thanks for such a helpful post.

I have a question. I got that small board with the power jack out of the laptop, its a s6120 model. unfortunately, the jack fell off somewhere and that small board has only soldering points visible.

I am not sure what wire of the adapter must be connected to which point on that small board with the power jack.

If you could help, please!



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Thanks a million, excellent tutorial, just what the web was made for. This will save me some serious bucks...

Preciate it dude

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I was looking for this right from last few days. now i may fix my problem as you mentioned it beautifully. thanks for providing wonderful tutorial.

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This comment has been removed by the author.

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Blogger John Whitling said...

One more very happy reader. Thanks for taking the considerable time and effort to photo and blog this. I've owned nothing but Fujitsu laptops for the last decade. They are reliable as all get out. However one of them did fall to this problem and with your careful instruction I got it back up again. Mine was actually an S6231 and it went without a hitch.

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